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Some capital cities conceal their souls from outsiders. Others take months to
infiltrate and even longer to get on intimate terms with. Lisbon does exactly
the opposite. Sean Dodson says why
The Portuguese capital, situated on the mouth of the Rio Tejo (River Tagus),
invites you to embrace it with arms outstretched as wide as those of the Cristo
Rei statue – a replica of Rio’s Christ the Redeemer – that
stands vigil over the old harbour.
One
of Lisbon’s trademark yellow trams
With its combination of low prices, easy public transport and friendly people,
it makes a surprisingly small, determinedly non-capital, capital city.
Rambling and elegant, Lisbon somehow defies glamour (how many Portuguese celebrities
can you name?), while still offering an attractive combination of chic urban
energy and natural nonchalance. It is a city that will linger in the memory long
after you’ve worked off the extra pounds created by its many tasty delicacies
and hearty helpings of sardines and salt cod.
The centre of Lisbon is one of the most undeveloped city centres in western
Europe. Modern high-rise buildings wait patiently at the edge of town, leaving
the core deliciously underdeveloped. Only beneath the surface will you find secret
stashes of modernity, as if brilliant and innovative architecture were some kind
of shameful Portuguese vice.
Fado mandolins
Even so, the most unforgettable details are of the old city: winding cobblestone
lanes opening onto gaping public spaces; pavements tiled with glazed mosaics,
or azulejos; and laundry lines slung between wrought iron balconies. But for
pure symbolism, not even the gorgeous golden castle of São Jorge shimmering
above the city can match the sight of the city’s trundling yellow trams
and worn-out funicular railways traversing the city’s seven hills.
Modern high-rise buildings wait patiently at the edge of town leaving the
core deliciously undeveloped
Friday evening
Begin your break by stepping out on Friday night. Nothing too strenuous, mind – you
need to conserve energy for a truly splendid Saturday night. So a modest supper
in the picturesque Alfama district would be a good start.
Night falls on the ancient Alfama district
Close to the river, the Alfama is a fine example of the city’s Moorish
and medieval past. Most importantly it is the home of Fado, a blues-tinged Portuguese
folk music featuring much heartfelt and often anguished vocals. Fado is invariably
sung by a black-clad local diva, or fadista, accompanied by a pair of moustachioed
mandolin pluckers in some suitably cavernous interior.
The local tavernas, which feature fado vadio, literally vagabond fado, are
worth seeking out if you want something unpolished but authentic. They can be
found by simply walking through the quarter’s tangle of streets. Although
most venues are welcoming, outsiders might feel slightly out of place as everybody
knows the words to the more famous songs. Alternatively, Clube do Fado (92-94
Rua São João da Praça, tel: +351 21 888 2694), with its
audience a half-half mix of tourist and native, offers a comprehensive introduction
to these
songs of fate and longing.
Most Fado venues operate a consumo minimo policy; m eaning they expect you
to order a meal. Expect a menu dominated by seafood. Fresh cod plucked from local
harbours and served deep fried or salted has long been the local passion. Local
chefs claim there are 365 different recipes, which suggests cod even on Christmas
day.
Saturday morning
Rise early and explore the Baixa: an area full of smart squares and beautiful
boulevards, as well as useful cash points, late-night kiosks and connecting tram
lines. Lisbon’s de facto downtown, it will help you orientate yourself
for the rest of your trip. Even here, smack in the centre of town, the past dominates
with pipe tobacco shops, hot chestnut stalls and street hawkers pedalling hooky
sunglasses keeping the designer shops at bay.
The Vasco da Gama Tower provides a slice of modernism
While here, take a trip up the Santa Justa Elavator. Built in 1901 by a disciple
of Gustav Eiffel, this delightfully clanky, wrought iron lift hoists you to a
café overlooking Rossio Square and the surrounding red rooftops. In summer,
hot gusts of Atlantic wind can be a mild annoyance, but the view is worth it.
Above lies the Barrio Alto: one of the most vibrant and visually pleasing
old towns in Europe. Famous for its nightlife, it can often be overlooked as
a daytime destination. Although traditionally a quiet and conservative local
neighbourhood by day, a recent introduction of hip designer shops and boutique
hotels are changing the fabric of the quarter. Fátima Lopes has a shop
here, as does Lena Aires (96 Rua da Atalaia, tel: +351 21 346 1815). You might
soon consider staying there too, as later this year sees the opening of the Bairro
Alto Hotel (www.hotelbairroalto.com) located in a handsome period building in
the Praça Luise de Camoes. It will offer 55 rooms, a restaurant serving
modern Portuguese cuisine and a terrace boasting stunning views across the city.
Saturday afternoon
Belém, situated 6kms from the city centre, boasts two world heritage sites
and a clutch of impressive museums. The Mosteiro dos Jeronimós, a 16th-century
monastery, holds the tomb of famous Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama, who discovered
the first maritime route to India. It makes a pleasant half-day outing accesible
by the No 15 tram from the centre of town.
The
Pasteis de Belém has had 200 years to perfect its divine little
custard tarts
Pipe tobacco shops, hot chestnut stalls and street hawkers keep the designer
shops at bay
The food in Lisbon is not always to die for, but you might willingly suffer
a near-death experience for one of her pasteis de nata; delicious custard tarts
sprinkled with cinnamon. The best in the world are baked and served at the Pasteis
de Belém (84-8 Rua de Belém tel: +351 21 363 7423), and their recipe – probably
the closely guarded secret in Portugal – dates back nearly 200 years to
when they were baked by local nuns. Three bites and they’re gone, but they
cost under €0.70 each. Expect to queue for a table, though.
Once sufficiently saturated with history and sated of pastries it’s
time to cast yourself towards the evening. So do like the Lisboetas and take
a little nap ...
Saturday evening
You’ll never go wrong with a fish restaurant stuffed full of locals, but
battered cod is not always the best fuel for dancing. However, Lisbon offers
a decent selection of hip restaurants offering a lighter line in dining that
won’t max-out your credit card.
There’s
more to Portuguese cuisine than cod
Housed in a former warehouse building near the harbour, Bico do Sapato (Avenida
Infante D. Henrique, Armazem B, tel: +351 21 881 0320), co-owned by Hollywood
actor John Malkovich, is the swishest option in town, with three restaurants
offering Portuguese, fusion and Japanese cuisine. Cameron Diaz was recently spotted
there, and later relaxing on the sofas of sister club, The Lux. Both ventures
are run by Manuel Reis, who did much to ignite the city’s club scene in
the late ’90s with the opening of Fragil nightclub in the Barrio Alto.
Incidently, Fragil (128 Rua da Atalaia) is now run by a group of its former clubbers,
and while it has lost the hip elite crowd, it’s still a great place to
cut the carpet, especially as entrance is often free.
Reis’s design empire is only really rivalled by the the Lapa Palace
Hotel, a favourite of Mick Jagger, Sting and Enrique Iglesias, it’s worth
hanging out at the hotel’s piano bar if star spotting’s your thing.
For the record, the England football team stayed at the Solplay Apartments (www.solplay.pt),
while the team’s wives stayed at the Penha Longa Hotel and Golf Resort
(www.penhalonga.com) in Sintra, a few miles northwest of the city, during Euro
2004.
Come midnight the Barrio gets so busy that staff serve drinks out of the windows
of the countless bars
La Baixia’s Terreiro do Paco Restaurant, located in the Praça
do Comercio, is reopening this year to high expectations. The restaurant promises
a modern twist on traditional Portuguese cuisine with a ground floor terrace
café and upstairs restaurant.
Saturday night
Whatever you do, don’t step out too early in Lisbon. Arrive in the Barrio
Alto before 10pm and you might think that the reputation of the quarter has been
exaggerated. But it’s a different story come midnight when seemingly every
hedonist in the city spills out onto the streets. It gets so busy that bar staff
serve drinks out of the windows of the quarter’s countless watering holes.
Lisboetas come out at night to play
Majong (3 Rua da Atalaia, tel: +351 21 342 1039), which spins a mix of jazz
funk, dub reggae and a dash of electro, is the hip option. Portas Largas (Rua
da Atalaia 105, tel: +351 21 346 6379) is a local institution. Strictly speaking
it’s a gay bar, but the crowd’s so mixed at weekends as to render
any categorisation useless. Alternatively, a little peace is offered at Somendos
(Rua da Rosa), a nocturnal bookshop that serves coffee beyond midnight.
Stay out until dawn for the full Lisbon experience. Perhaps catch the sunrise
from the balcony of The Lux and then go for a dawn espresso with the market traders
at the nearby food market, Mercado da Ribeira. Alternatively discover the warehouse-chic
of Alcântara or carry on dancing at the Paradise Garage (38-48 Rua João
Oliveira Miguéis, tel: +351 21 324 3400) situated between Barrio Alto
and the docks.
Sunday
What time you retire depends on how much you want to do on Sunday, but it would
be a shame to miss the Parque das Nações on the northeastern riverfront.
Situated on the site of the 1998 World Expo, it is now a national park full of
world-class modern architecture. With views of the magnificent Vasco da Gama
Bridge (which reaches almost 18kms across the Rio Tejo) it is a world away from
central Lisbon’s cluttered streets. The park is also home to Oceanarium,
Europe’s largest aquarium, which is fantastic fun for kids. A good place
for lunch is the nearby Bar Real República de Coimbra (tel: +351 21 895
6056).
As you head home, you might well feel a tug at your heart, but thankfully
the airport is only a 15-minute cab ride away, and what other capital city can
offer that? ■
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