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What should we be wearing this winter? A trenchcoat, leopard
prints, and a power-suit will do wonders, but don’t forget some eccentric
jewellery, and boots. All of it in a retro style of course. Veerle Windels reports
Glamour was definitely back on the catwalks this winter, but there’s
more to this season than 'Hollywood meets Berlin’s red carpet’. Retro
is all over the place, with attention to the forties, fifties, sixties and seventies.
Even the eighties were given new life in Milan and Paris; think of the power
suit and the mighty shoulder pads, and you know what we mean. All this retro
splashing just makes us wonder: why are we so full of the past, if the future
is just in front of us? Fashion historians suggest it’s all about fear
and uncertainty, we’re seeking comfort in the familiar past, so why worry
about the future?
The highlight that made us gasp with excitement was the Gucci show in Milan.
Knowing that Tom Ford, the Texan designer who revived the famous luxury house,
was about to quit the House, made us wonder: would he depart on a beautiful high?
And he sure did. It was Gucci luxury all the way; long, lean dresses, fur stoles
and shoes that made the graceful models appear to glide on ice. Ford reintroduced
us to his vision of the forties and gave Gucci a fashion moment – again.
This love of all things retro also explains the vintage rage that has haunted
us for several seasons now. All things vintage are selling well: from lookalike
Chanel tweed jackets to old grandma’s bags, and hats or heels that make
us step back in time. Big international labels like Prada are borrowing from
the fifties and some Belgian designers (like Rue Blanche) are presenting avant-
garde wardrobes that look like an old- inspired one. Hollywood actresses like
Catherine Zeta-Jones and Gwyneth Paltrow adore vintage, and look the starlet
part, when donning vintage frocks, off or on the red carpet.
With retro come an abundance of rich colours; bold purples and oranges, but
also wine red, grass green, ochre and a myriad of browns. Combine this with lots
of strong prints, (originating in Africa, or some or other exotic flower- field)
and you’ll be en vogue. Some designers are going for the leopard prints,
in about every piece of their work, which can be somewhat overwhelming (to say
the least). Swarovski have presented an Out of Africa collection. So it’s
a hallelujah to the leopard-print, but beware you don’t overdo it and end
up resembling a lady of the night.
Black still reigns too – as
in Art Deco this time rather than pared-down minimalism. Think the decadent 1920s,
with lacy details (in lace) and pure geometry and a certain strictness (in design).
Steer clear of black minimalism, even Japanese designers have brightened up their
act in this regard and demonstrate their genius in bright and shiny colours.
Some winter trends look great in the streets: the trenchcoat is a must for
rainy days. Forget Columbo, and think broader than beige. Burberry set a new
standard for this old coat (originating in the trenches of the Great War) and
has survived as a label doing better than ever with a wonderful Kate Moss starring
in the ads. Of course the trenchcoats Burberry sells are colourful, in gorgeous
pastel shades, and other brands are following suit, look out for a red one by
Céline,
or opt for a dashing print by Dries Van Noten.
Another favourite are short skirts, combined with all kinds of boots, be
daring and team them with coloured panties. Short skirts are coming in thick
materials like velvet and cord, or the square tartans of Scottish clans. Choose
boots that are more solid, chunky rock’n’roll rather than elegant
and chic.
From December to February, it’s possible to buy clothes and accessories
at very reasonable prices. Some shops offer discount prices to their best customers
(by sending quite private cards to their home address) others offer winter sales,
discounting even the very latest styles. But what to buy in the sales, knowing
that spring and summer are just around the corner again? Well, here’s a
list of do’s and dont’s to guide you: |
Buy colour. The spring and summer collections are full of dashing pink, orange
and yellow, even green and vintage rose are present.
Try prints. Micro and macro designs are in for next season, offering tiny
and huge flower prints, but also crocus-like hand-painted prints (very fifties
like).
Buy the following that will still be going strong for spring; a trench- coat,
a cashmere twin-set, a full skirt, open sandals with half-high heels, capes and
bolero style jackets, and even diaphanous peasant blouses. |
Waste time on black. You might not even find it in the sales as there’s
so much colour around.
Go too crazy on colour – you could end up resembling a clown. Colours
are great, but combine them in a rational way.
Think the vintage rage is over yet – but do go for the attractive pieces
that set your heart afire. |
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All that glitters is de rigueur, don metallics, silvers and golds to shine
brightly in the dark winter months. Gimmicks like jewellery on your mobile, the
little black dress (affectionately known as the LBD) fur (like it or not), flowers
as corsage, and eccentric shoes are also top trends. Speaking of shoes, some
designers showed us high, open sandals for winter, with fake jewellery added
on top of that. That’s alright for a glamour season, but hardly practical
in cold, rainy weather. It seems the best accessory this winter may be a limo
and chauffeur...
So what about him? Catwalks offer sartorial highlights this season, designers
are returning to made-to- measure suits.
Craftsmanship is everywhere from Dior to Raf Simons and handmade or bespoke
is a must – in details and the choice of fabric.
Tailoring swept through Milan, even at Jil Sander, Versace and an
Tracey Emin 4 Longchamp enfant terrible like Alexander McQueen. As Mrs Prada
said, “when the boys are young, it’s trashy T-shirts and jeans, but
once they are in business, they like to dress formally.”
This doesn’t mean that jeans and casual wear are gone forever, it’s
just a manner of speech. The fashion freaks may want to turn back time, opting
for a neat tailored three-piece suit look, but the man on the street would surely
combine a more casual style, with just a shirt and tie now and then.
Accessories are the new perfumes. As haute couture tends to generate less and
less money, it’s the perfumes and the accessories of the luxury houses
that bring in the income. The Prada’s and Gucci’s of this glittery
world, have shown the way by introducing more and more accessory styles, and
most of the luxury labels in Paris, Milan and New York have followed. Some women
buy bags at astonishing prices: they claim that the look is in the bag. Like
never before, there are waiting lists for famous bags like the Kelly by Hermès,
the Baguette by Fendi, the Bikerbag
by Versace and the Cambon by Chanel. Ten years ago, it was
undone for a designer to get his models on the catwalk wearing accessories, now
they are loaded down with them.
Why are accessories so popular with the fashion pack? Because they give the
buyer the opportunity to own a famous luxury label without paying a huge amount
of money, although some bags cost thousands. The same goes for a perfume of course.
A tweed suit by Chanel costs a fortune compared to a bottle of Chanel N°5.
Ever tried it?
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