|
Leuven, south-west of Brussels, is a small, Flemish town with
a big university and an even bigger history. Here’s a list
of what you shouldn’t miss.
Leuven is a small Walhalla for enthusiasts of the 15th-century Brabantine
Late Gothic style. The Great Market Square features three glorious
examples of this flamboyant architecture. First of all, there’s
the stunning Town Hall (above and right), also known as the “Leuven
Pantheon”. With more than 236 biblical statues in its niches,
it’s a true feast for the eye. Opposite the Town Hall, you’ll
find Saint Peter’s Church, with two world-famous masterpieces
in its treasury: “The Last Supper” and “Martyrdom
of Saint Erasmus”, both by Flemish Primitive painter Dirk
Bouts. And finally there’s the Round Table, located at the
east side of the square. Originally conceived as a municipal building
that was rented by the medieval guilds, it was beautifully reconstructed
in the 20th century.
“The longest bar in Europe”, it is generally called
by locals. Lining up more than 60 pubs, which serve a great many
of the 360 kinds of beer produced in Belgium, the Old Market Square
offers plenty of choice to find a spot that fits your mood. “Stella”,
the pride of Leuven, is probably the most uttered word on this square.
Bars are packed on Thursday nights, students’ regular night
out.
Leuven’s oldest brewery, Den Horen (The Horn), dates back
to 1366, but it wasn’t until 1717 that master brewer Sebastian
Artois gave his name to one of Belgium’s best-known export
products – Stella Artois. Guided tours in the Interbrew brewery
(Vaartstraat 94) might give you a glimpse of how water, malt, hops,
yeast and non-malted grains blend into perfect draught and bottled
beer. But as local legend has it, the best Stellas are served at
Jeeskesboom (Diestsestraat 147), which is rumoured to have direct
piping from the brewery. Your presence may raise an eyebrow or two
with the – mainly elderly – customers, but the magic
words “a Stella please” will surely put a friendly smile
on everyone’s face and, as some of Interbrew’s commercials
would have it, will “stop the time”.
The former residence of mayor Leopold Vander Kelen, now a municipal
museum (Savoyestraat 6), displays original 19th-century interior
decoration and furniture, complete with paintings, sculptures, tin,
silver, chandeliers and carpets. As Belgium was the first country
on the continent with a railway, train spotters will probably have
a field day at the NMBS Museumbewaarplaats (Diestsesteenweg 1),
where historical steam and diesel engines, carriages and other Belgian
railway memorabilia are exhibited. And film buffs might want to
check the Vlaams Film Museum (Leopold Vanderkelenstraat 30), a film
museum annex archive where you get an informative insight into the
medium’s Flemish history. Two small theatres screen selected
Flemish films, as well as international classics.
Beguinages are a typical medieval phenomenon in the Low Countries.
In these dwellings, mulieres religiosae (often devout widows and
unmarried women) settled for a religious life outside convents and
institutions. Leuven has two picturesque beguinages, a small (left)
and a large one (far left), with 16th-century houses: UNESCO world
heritage since 1998.
The University of Leuven, established in 1425, is the oldest university
in the Low Countries and one of the most prestigious in the world.
Famous scholars like Erasmus and Justus Lipsius gave the institute
a splendid reputation, which it still holds today. The University
Library accommodates more than a million books covering various
scientific subjects. The main building (Mgr. Ladeuzeplein 21), with
a breathtaking wooden interior, is open to the general public.
For more than 250 years the botanical garden (Kapucijnenvoer 30)
has had an extensive collection of exotic trees, shrubs and bushes.
Next to these herbaceous plants, herbs, water and tank plants is
a greenhouse complex, displaying a variety of tropical and subtropical
plants. The orangery is classified as a monument by Royal Decree
and has regular exhibitions. Admission to the botanical garden is
free.
Shopping is concentrated on three axes: you can either go to the
Bondgenotenlaan, to the Diestsestraat or stroll down the Mechelsestraat.
Designer clothing is a bit off target though: female visitors should
check Anna (Vaartstraat 8) for designer women’s wear (Gucci,
Armani, Burberry), Olivier Strelli (Brusselsestraat 7) for Belgian
designer wear (women’s clothing, accessories and shoes) and
Bella (Brusselsestraat 6) for handbags and accessories. Men looking
for an expansion of their wardrobe can turn to Milano (Bondgenotenlaan
63-67) for fine Italian designer clothing (Gucci, Armani, Versace)
or take a look at Enrico (Diestsestraat 124) for exclusive men’s
wear.
If you only have time for one topnotch restaurant, let it be the
Boardroom (J.Vandenbemptlaan 6), where a bunch of young enthusiastic
cooks prepare delicious meals for the 21st century. The modern boardroom
is part of a larger complex with a hotel of the same name and a
smaller eatery next to it, the Voltaire. In the Muntstraat you’ll
find one restaurant next to the other. Two highlights: seafood at
the intimate Oesterbar (Muntstraat 23) and Asian food at Eat Planet
(Muntstraat 32). A more conventional cuisine can be found at the
stylish Spaans Dak (Maurits Noëstraat 2) or at the Couvert
Couvert (Sint-Jansbergsesteenweg 171).
Party people dance the night away at the Silo (Vaartkom 39), a large
industrial building transformed into a club where deep house, drum
‘n’ bass and pounding techno rule. Funky breakbeats
and jazzy grooves are the trademark of Rumba & Co. (Kiekenstraat).
And if you want to wind down with some live music, be sure to visit
the cosy Bebop (82 Tiensestraat), where national and international
jazz, blues and pop artists take the stage on Monday evenings.
Your guide around the city of Leuven was Bram Van Moorhem, Writemen
Unlimited (Ghent)
|