Useful numbers
Dial +30 for Greece, 210 for Athens.
Virgin Express reservations: 801 11 500 400.

Tourist information
The main tourist information centre in Athens is at 2 Amerikis Street (open 8am to 2.30pm). Nearest metro, Syntagma. Dial 185 for 24-hour travel assistance.

Getting around
Express buses operate on a 24-hour schedule; E95 runs to Syntagma Square (central Athens) every 15-20 minutes; E96 runs to Piraeus port every 25 minutes. A third express bus, the E94, runs to the Ethniki Amyna metro station every 16 minutes from 6am until midnight. An inter-city route goes to the Port of Rafina every 40 minutes (between 6am and 9.30pm).
Buses & trams : Plentiful and cheap but not the most comfortable way of getting around town, especially in rush hour. Intercity buses are better and remarkably inexpensive.
Metro : The quickest way to get about the city centre, though the network is still relatively small. Also connects to the old overground line from Piraeus to Kifissia.
Taxis : Plentiful, easily the best solution. Hail in the street; shout your destination loudly. Drivers don’t light up to indicate if they are free as they expect passengers to share (you can refuse by law). Fixed tariffs apply (posted in every cab) and fares are metered but often rounded up to speed exit. Tipping not required.

IN ASSOCIATION WITH
Car hire : For special Virgin Express rates visit the Europcar desk on arrival or call: 353 33 21.

Try speaking some...
HELLO — Yia sou (singular), Yia sas (polite plural) GOODBYE — Yia sou (singular), Yia sas (polite plural) PLEASE — Parakalo
THANK YOU — Efharisto
HOW DO I GET TO ... — Pos boro na pao ston... (male) Pos boro na pao stin... (female) Pos boro na pao sto... (neutral)
WHERE CAN I FIND THE TOURIST OFFICE?
— Pou ine to periptero touristikon pliroforion?
WHAT’S THE WEATHER FORCAST FOR THE COMING DAYS?— Pia ine i prognosi kerou gia tis epomenes imeres?
WHERE’S THE BEST CLUB/DISCO IN TOWN?
— Pou ine to kalitero klab i diskotek sti poli?
WOULD YOU LIKE TO DANCE WITH ME? —
Thelis na horepsoume?
CAN I HAVE A GLASS OF OUZO? — Tha ithela ena ouzo?
IN WHICH RESTAURANT CAN I THROW PLATES?— Boris na me mathis na horevo Sirtaki?

HOTSPOTS
September, especially the first half, is still ideal beach weather in Greece and in some ways better than the height of summer. Hop on a hydrofoil for a day- trip to islands like Aegina , Poros , Ydra and Spetses , all a comfortable distance from Athens. For more autumnal fun drive north toward Volos on Greece’s eastern coast and visit mountainous Pilio with its beautiful forests and equally beautiful beaches below. To the northwest in Epirus is the stunning Zagorochoria district with its traditional stone-built villages perched on the slopes around the Vikos Gorge and Vikos River – where you can also try your hand at white-water rafting and other high octane fun – but you’ll need at least a long weekend to make the round-trip from Athens.

WINE & DINE
Sleek socialites and trendy advertising types head for Balthazar (Vournazou 27, Ambelokipi), set in an elegant neoclassical townhouse surrounded by palms. Be prepared for stiff expressions and prices to match. Join the ladies who lunch at the Emporio Armani Café (Milioni & Solonos 4, Kolonaki) after a hard day’s shopping, or drop into Food Company (Anagnostopoulou 47, Kolonaki) for a quick snack. Eat sushi in style at Freud Oriental (Xenokratous 21, Kolonaki) - or sashimi for less at Niki’s Café (Nikis 3, Syntagma). Need a break from the city centre? Head out toward the Marathon Dam and the village of Kalentzi to sample the mammoth steaks at Argentina , the smallest of which weigh in at over half a kilo.

AFTER DARK
Kolonaki and Gazi are currently the hottest nightspots in Athens, full of trendy bars and clubs like Mommy (Delphon 4, Kolonaki), Almodobar (Konstantinoupoleos 60, Gazi) and Banana Moon (M. Alexandrou 139, Gazi). Among the larger clubs, Free2Go Club 22 (Vouliagmenis Ave. 22, N. Kosmos) hosts frequent events and draws a laid-back, easy-going crowd, while Kalua (Amerikis 6, Kolonaki) is packed every night but much tougher to get into. For rock music head for Exarhia’s Mo Better (Themistokleous & Koletti 32) or Decadence (Voulgaroktonou 69 & Poulherias, Lofos Strefi), while jazz lovers should head for the Half Note Jazz Club (Trivonianou 17, Mets) that opens once the weather becomes cooler.

SHUTEYE
The luxurious Athens Hilton (Vas. Sofias Ave 46, tel: 210 7281000) with its clean modern lines is one of the city’s landmarks. Prices start from around €250 per night for a double but can vary depending on the season, time of booking etc. At the St George Lycabettus (Kleomenous 2, Kolonaki, tel: 210 7290711-9) prices start at €150 but go up for rooms with a view. Further down the price bracket, the conveniently situated Titania Hotel (Panepistimiou 52, Omonia, tel: 210 3300111) will set you back €120 for a double, while the Hotel Cecil (Athinas 39, Psyrri, tel: 210 321 7079) with its old-world charm charges just €70-80.

BEST BUY
For serious shoppers, there is no alternative to trendy Kolonaki within Athens. Look here for international designer wear and local fashion labels, like Sophia Kokosalaki , Aslanis or Lakis Gavalas . Ermou is less chic and more high street, but the streets of the 'historic centre’ around it hide many quirky little shops like Closet , Out of Africa , or Spiliopoulos where you can pick up original, off-beat items. Plaka, Mitropoleos and Monastiraki are best for souvenirs and gifts to take home. Visit Manifactura (Zoodohou Pigis 29, Exarhia) for original art, jewellery, decorations and household items.

EVA WEBSTER